Since Puerto Rico is a territory of the United States, you don't need a passport to go there. However, you definitely know you're not in the US when you land. Most signs are in Spanish and while most people can also speak English, I ran into a few that didn't.
View from our hotel suite |
We spent most of the day lounging at the in-pool bar and went to Brava, El San Juan's nightclub, that night. It reminded me of a few of the dark and low-budget clubs I visited in Santiago, but there was one interesting twist. Sean Kingston happened to be in the VIP section - there goes any chance of getting attention from the girls. They were all too busy trying to get free drinks and pictures.
On Saturday Avery, his other California surfer friend Dave, and I were bent on finding some waves to surf. After checking the swell forecasts and talking to a few locals, we found that our best bet was only a quarter mile up the beach near the Ritz Carlton Hotel (if you're looking for a landmark). There were other breaks across the island that are all accessible and go off with different swells, but we would need a car, long board rentals, straps for the car, and more time. Avery was staying longer than the rest of us so he took notes about these breaks. We just rented soft boards on the beach for $25 per hour and headed out at the local break (I don't even remember if it had a name).
The waves weren't great by any means, but it was fun to get out there and catch some anyway. Most were ankle biters and there were a lot of people in the water to fight off. Not only that, I found a few pieces of floating wood spiked with rusty nails right on the break - yikes. Overall this break was worth visiting, but if you're coming to PR for a surf vacation you should go for the more remote locations and save this for a last resort.
***Note: we met a few ladies in their 40s on a women's weekend that rented SUPs (stand up paddle boards). They accidentally dropped their paddles, which sunk and cost them $250 per. I don't know why you would create a paddle that didn't float, but make sure you check if you go SUPing!***
On Saturday night we got back together with the rest of the crew... a few of them went to a cockfighting match near our hotel. This is still legal and sanctioned, with gambling and telecasts like horse racing back in Kentucky. We all had dinner and went back to Brava. The best man, Avery's brother, reserved a table and it was a special occasion - fight night. Puerto Ricans love boxing, especially when one of their own is fighting. Cotto vs. Margarito II was entertaining, mainly because of the atmosphere it created in the club. Everyone was singing and cheering Cotto's every move. When he won, it made the club go crazy.
Club Brava |
The next morning we had to be out of the hotel and most of the guys were going home. A few of us were staying for an extra night, but we booked a hotel in Old San Juan. Driving through that section of town really reminded me of Casco Viejo, the old section of Panama City that I visited earlier this year. All of the buildings were extremely old and it really took you back in time. The only downside was the massive cruise ship terminal nearby that kept a steady stream of typical American tourists clogging up the streets.
Dave and Avery broke down and rented a car so they could try to surf the northwest coast breaks on Monday (I was flying out in the morning). Since we had a car, we decided to go explore the northeast coast a bit. We got directions to a break that wasn't too far away that broke right on some rocks. I don't know exactly where it was, but my best guess is near the El Chorro river mouth. Avery convinced a guy to let him borrow his board, but the rest of us just sat on the beach and watched. It looked pretty brutal and I've never seen Avery so shaken up after a session.
Old San Juan |
It just so happened that the 18th annual Southern Fortaleza Culinary Fest was happening a few blocks from our hotel that weekend. Every restaurant on Calle Fortaleza (aka Restaurant Row) was selling small portions of their menus along with decent mojitos, along with music, art and people walking around everywhere. It was a great way to end the weekend and felt like what the 'real' Puerto Rico would be like without the tourism and American influence.
If I ever get the chance to go back I'll try to explore El Yunque National Forest (the only rain forest in the US), maybe do some snorkeling and diving and tour a rum distillery or two :)
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